In the last couple of years, different forms of so called “dermarollers” or “microneedle face rollers” have been in the spotlight on various social media platforms.
Beauty influencers from Youtube to Instagram have been promoting rollers to achieve a supposedly flawless appearance. What they're not always disclosing however, is that there are many faux rollers circuiting the market that could be causing more damage than good to your skin.
So what are dermarollers really, and what should you be aware of before using them?
Source: Kackie Reviews Beauty
What Rollers are supposed to do
Skin needle rollers are a handheld device designed to promote CIT (collagen induction therapy) in the skin. The rolling part of the device is covered in fine needles that are precisely 0.3 or 0.5 mm long (for the face) and spaced uniformly. Once rolled over the skin, the needles cause:
Specific localized trauma
Activates collagen to be produced
Heals superficial unevenness
There are many reasons to why we would want this effect and the most common being for Pigmentation, Scarring, Wrinkle/Fine lines, Stretch marks and PP (product penetration). The collagen improves all of these conditions as well as increases blood circulation superficially leaving you with brighter and healthier complexion.
Rollers aren't inherently bad, but they can only show the desired effect if your purchase an autthentic dermaroller. Otherwise, you are begging for cuts, bruises or in some cases permanent micro lesions/wounds. Yikes!
Which Roller you SHOULD use
The only dermaroller you should use is the invention of a German company called Dermaspark who have an international trademark and patents on dermarollers.They are the only ones FDA certified and should be the primary choice for anyone looking to use a roller.
Even with an FDA approved dermaroller, if you're using this bad boy wrong, your desired effect will look more like Freddy Kruger as opposed to "glass skin"
People lie on the internet sis. That dermaroller you see on Amazon with "5 stars"? Most likely fake or paid reviews. Many companies/sites have false claims and use “FDA approved” and it’s up to you to do the research and to judge whether or not you're purchasing from a legitimate source.
What “cheap” rollers actually do
Purchasing an affordable and a reliable looking option from Amazon may save you a portion of the cost at the time, but beware that if that product is not fully licensed and registered it will most likely have non-medical grade needles.
Source: Roytblat, iGAL. DERMAROLLER VS GENERAL COMPETITIVE PRODUCT, August 11, 2017, www.dermarollerclinics.com
Non-Med Needle → Jagged Tip → Ripping Skin → Scars/Wounds
There is also no way of knowing if the length is precisely 0.3/0.5mm when it comes from an unreliable source. And just like an uneven needle tip can cause wounds, a depth more than 0.5mm for the face will possibly cause irreversible damage as well.
Source: Photo: Roytblat, iGAL. DERMAROLLER VS OTHER ROLLERS, August 11, 2017, www.dermarollerclinics.com
But what is Microneedling tho?
Moving on! Now that we´re all aware of what to watch out for in rollers out there, let´s talk about Microneedling. Dermarollers are great on their own, however, if you want to optimize your results and achieve dramatic change in your skin, it is highly recommended to combine your Dermaroller with Microneedling treatments. This would be more for our mature ladies/gents or someone with severe skin pigmentation or scarring.
Source: Skin Spa, www.skinspa.com
...Is it the same as a roller?
Microneedling is ALWAYS performed by your medical esthetician, dermatologist or physician (depending on where you live), and is similar to Dermarollers in that it involves needles. The difference lies within the expertise of your clinic and the person performing the service. They´re able to use up to 1.5mm needles safely and penetrate deeper into the dermis without damage with the use of the "Microneedling Pen" or a clinical Dermaroller. The downtime is longer (about 48h) since it is a more invasive procedure and is usually done several months apart. How many treatments and the appropriate serums to use between treatments is up to your clinic to decide depending on your skin and it´s needs.
Microneedling & "Vampire Facial"
There are many different variations of microneedling out there but two of the more popular ones are RF Microneedling and the so called “Vampire Facial” also known as PRP. Radio Frequency Microneedling involves (you guessed it) radio frequency. This heat induced CIT uses RF to create a pathway for penetration of heat into cellular level for increased cellular metabolism which further promotes skin cell renewal. In short! – your skin will look really good much quicker!
However, the downtime after this treatment is longer (about 1 week) so make sure you book this at least a couple weeks before any events.
The vampire facial, first made headlines by Kim Kardashian, is a Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) treatment that´s performed by nurses or doctors ONLY, in a clinic where they have the equipment to separate the PRP from other components in your own blood. The original vampire facial was done by applying blood all over the face prior to Microneedling, these days the technology has increased and the stem cell and platelet rich plasma is now injected into localized areas of concern to increase collagen, skin metabolism and healing. This treatment isn´t microneedling in itself but is most often accompanied by microneedling for optimal overall results.
Do your research! Trust no one...
So the next time anyone tries to promote Anything that is supposed to penetrate the skin, just make sure to search up facts about the source before usage.